Selected Leads

This is an abridged list of the things I've climbed. I included climbs either because I'm proud of having lead them, or because they were memorable or enjoyable.

Redpoints

These are climbs that I spent a significant amount of time working on before I was able to lead climb them without falling.

5.8 Psycho Crack Right

One of the finest routes in Peterskill. In one pitch you get a variety of climbing. The crux of the route is a short section of offwith.

I toproped this climb a few times to get it clean, but didn't plan out the gear completely before I led it, so on lead I placed both my big pieces, a #4 and a #5, around the crux, which was already adequately protected with a green Totem. Above the crux, I found myself with more holds, but surprisingly few placements. It wasn't until the meat of the route was over a few body-lengths later that I got another piece.

5.7(5.5R) The Brat

This route was part of a lot of work on my lead head that I did this summer. The 5.7 crux is fairly straightforward, but it's followed by a long section of unprotected 5.5.

I managed to place a black Totem cam in a pocket in the runout section, but when my follower arrived at it they laughed and removed it without even depressing the trigger.

5.7 Reach Around

This route is fairly easy until its short, well-protected crux. This was my first 5.7 lead in the Gunks, so I was surprised to see that it was rated 5.8 on Mountain Project! I don't feel like it was that hard, but I've heard the crux was height-dependent, and I'm on the taller side of average.

5.6 Laurel

The crux is the first few moves off the ground, so unlike most of my redpoints where I rehearsed the routes on top rope, I practiced just the crux of this with a boulder pad until I was confident.

I intended for this to be my first 5.7, which is what guidebooks grade it, but when I did it, it felt easier than 5.7, probably because the crux is height-dependent.